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Fishing Rod Power is the amount of energy it can accumulate and give back.

Power

Also known as "Power Value" or "Rod Weight" usually shows you what types of fishing, species of fish, or size of fish a particular fishing pole may be best used for. Power simply describes the overall stiffness of a blank, and the blanks ability to React. The reason for power rating is because there are big and small fishey's.

Ultra-light fishing rods are best for catching small bait fish like panfish. Extra-Heavy rods are used for heavy fish in surf fishing, deep sea fishing. Any fish can be caught with any rod, but catching panfish on a heavy rod offers no fun at all, and successfully landing a large fish on an ultra-light rod requires highest rod handling skills at best, and a fun you got is the best fun you can have but more frequently it ends in broken tackle and a lost fish. The best if rods are matched to the type of fishing they are intended for. The smaller the fish you target, the lighter the rod you will need. Panfish should be fished with either an Ultra Light or a Light rod, while you better use Heavy or Extra Heavy rod to cast large lures and fight some powerful and heavy fish like big musky.

The following list details the types of rod power, and the corresponding line and lure weight they would be best matched up with.

Power: Ultra Light Light Medium Medium Heavy Heavy Extra Heavy

Line Weight: 1 to 4lb Test 4 to 8lb Test 4 to 12lb Test 8 to 14lb Test 15 - 25lb Test 25lb Test and Above

Lure Weight: 1/64 - 1/16oz 1/32 - 1/8oz 1/8 - 3/8oz 3/16 - 1/2 oz up to 1 1/2 oz 1 1/2 oz and Above

The lure weights and line sizes that a rod can handle determine its power. Ultra-light rods are designed for 2-6 pound line and lures weighing from 1/32-ounce. Rod blank power is simply a rating. Based upon the design characteristics of a particular blank model.

Power catagories are as follows:

UL - Ultra-Light L - Light ML - Med/Light M - Medium MH - Medium Heavy H - Heavy XH - Extra Heavy UH - Ultra Heavy Rod power is the rod's strength or ability to lift weight from the tip; it is the amount of force needed to bend the rod. The thickness and type of rod material will determine this. Power ratings are mostly reflective of the rod's application, a heavy power rod would be suited for offshore trolling and a medium power rod might be designed for surf casting. Power describes the strength of the rod or its lifting power. Power is closely related to the line strength Power (to recommended line weight); heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines. It is fairly important to keep your line test within the limits printed on the rod since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy bass rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. One might be rated for 25lb line and the other for 80lb line. The type of water you're fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Thick, heavy cover will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can tie you up. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get bit, meaning you will need a lighter power rod. Power refers to the blank's resistance to flexing under load. The Newton's third law: For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Resistance to flexing is a natural design characteristic based upon the taper and wall thickness of the blank. The power for blanks may range from Ultra-Light to Heavy to even Extra Heavy. The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Action and Power are not the same and cannot be used interchangeably as some think. A lot of rod manufactures and anglers get this confused with action. Most rods when marked light-action is referring to power not action. The best way to tell the power of a rod is to check the line weight ratings. Action refers to rod flex and Power refers the rod's resistance to flexing. Using the design criteria and inherent characteristics of a blank will aid in specific techniques and presentations. Using blank characteristics to your advantage will provide you the benefit of making the most out of every opportunity to land fish. The discussion around technique application will center on Action as opposed to Power. Both traits are designed into the blank by the manufacturer, but action will be the most critical characteristic when discussing and evaluating techniques and presentations. For bluegill, crappie and small trout, a light power, fast action spinning rod is a good choice. A quality ultra-light rod also works for these fish, but many ultra-lights are too short and too wimpy. A 4½-foot ultra-light rod with the backbone of a boiled noodle isn't worth the packaging it came in for any species. For larger black bass, walleye and channel catfish, a medium power, moderate fast or fast action baitcasting rod works well. Baitcasting reels have an enclosed spool and mount on top of the rod. They are the best choice for lines of 10 pound test or higher. They require much greater practice than spinning gear to use effectively. Choose the moderate fast action if you plan to fish leeches or minnows for walleye, or chicken livers for channel cats. The slightly softer action usually helps prevent you from throwing off the bait while casting. If you plan to jig and worm fish for largemouth bass and occasionally fish for the other species, choose a fast action, medium power rod. Get a medium heavy or heavy power baitcasting rod with a fast action for striped bass, muskellunge, flathead catfish and blue catfish. This set-up is also good for flipping or pitching jigs for largemouth bass. Choose a moderate or slow action rod with a medium-heavy or heavy power rating if you plan to use live bait. Again, the softer action protects against throwing the bait off the hook on the cast. These rods possess enough strength to land these fish, but they can also handle the heavy lures and strong line needed.

  Many people looking to buy a fishing rod simply show up at the local big box store and pull the first rod that catches their eye off the rack. Others search the Internet for reviews on popular upscale brands. Still others ask a friend, or in my case, write to me asking which rod to buy. Here are some basic rod facts that you need to know before you head out or go online to purchase one.

What Kind of Fishing are you Planning?

• Inshore Fishing

  Inshore fishing means relatively shallow water and relatively small fish – under 20 pounds for the most part. So, you need a rod that can handle a good size fish, but not one that weighs so much you can’t even fish with it.
  • Casting – Casting rods are used with conventional reels and can be used with lures or bait for light bottom fishing. They also accommodate floats and are good for free-lining live bait.
  • Spinning – Spinning rods can usually do the same things that a casting rods does, they simply use a different reel – a spinning reel. Spinning equipment can cast a lighter lure and is not subject to the backlash problems that an inexperienced angler encounters with a casting reel. This is a good choice for a beginning angler.
  • Bottom Fishing – Either casting or spinning rods can be used for inshore bottom fishing. The water depth, current, and amount of weight required to get a bait to the bottom helps dictate which size rod to use.
  • Fly Fishing – If you are reading this and you are a beginning fisherman, fly fishing may be the last thing on your mind. But, inshore saltwater fly fishing is extremely popular. If you do plan a first time purchase of a saltwater fly outfit, go with a prepackaged complete outfit in a 6 to 8 weight range. This is a good midrange starting point – heavier weights are for larger fish (Tarpon, big stripers, etc.), lighter weights are usually found in freshwater applications.

• Offshore Fishing

  • Trolling – The majority of trolling rods are built for conventional reels. While heavy spinning gear is sometimes used trolling for dolphin and king mackerel, conventional tackle is by far the most popular. These rods are usually labeled by line class. The IGFA 30, 50, and 80 class reels match up with the appropriate rod. These rods are usually an investment – they can cost that much. It is not unusual to pay over $1000 for a complete outfit. However, there are some good rods that can be combined with good reels that can come in under $200 for the package.
  • Bottom Fishing – These are the “meat” rods that many anglers have used to catch loads of fish. They are heavier and stiffer than a trolling rod, generally longer than a trolling rod, and are able to stand up to the abuses that a big fish can give them.
  • Fly Fishing – Fly rods that are used offshore are built for punishment. These are the heavier outfits that have large arbor reels (reels that hold lots of line) and come in weights from 9 to 12. These are very specialized rods for a very specialized type of fishing.

• Surf Fishing

  Surf rods are another specialized category. They are made for both spinning and casting reels – the choice is more dependent on angler preference than anything else. These rods are from 9 to 12 or 14 feet in length. They are designed to allow for super long casts that can get a bait out beyond the breakers on the beach. The rod size is also determined by angler preference, and usually means longer, heavier rods when looking for bigger fish.

• Pier Fishing

  Almost any inshore rod, including surf rods, can be and are used from piers. Once again, angler preference, casting distance, and fish size will dictate the rod type and size.

Rod Attributes

All rods have a set of attributes that separate them from each other. They may not be limited to this list, but these are the most important ones you need when choosing a rod.

• Length
  • Longer rods usually – not always – mean longer casts.
  • Longer trolling rods will give to a fish when they strike, and are suited for lighter trolling line.
  • Shorter rods generally mean heavier line.
  • Long rods make lure casting easier.
  • Shorter rods are generally better for bottom fishing.
• Guides
  • Ceramic guides are more expensive but allow smoother operation, less line fray, and longer casts.
  • Roller guides are used on heavy trolling and bottom fishing rigs.
  • Case hardened stainless steel guides are used for wire line applications.
  • Standard metal guides are least expensive and are suited for most bottom fishing applications.
• Butt Length - The butt of the rod is the part between the reel and the back end of the rod. Casting rods will generally have shorter butts. Spinning rods will have slightly longer butts, and bottom fishing or trolling rods will have much longer butts. The length of the butt on a rod is dependent on how the anger plans to use the rod. Angler preference for comfort and ease of use is also in play here.
• Action (Taper) - Taper is an attribute that most beginning anglers and many experienced anglers overlook. Taper relates to the amount of bend the rod imparts from the tip to the butt. It is measured from slow to extra-fast. In general, the slower the taper, the cheaper the rod blank.
  • Slow - A slow taper means the whole rod, from butt to tip will bend in an arc under pressure – sort of like a big bow. This makes casting a heavy bait difficult and setting a hook even more difficult.
  • Medium - Moving up the scale, a medium taper tends to have the butt section not bend as easily as the top portion of the rod. Most “store bought” rods will be a medium taper. It fits the majority of fishing situations.
  • Fast – A fast taper rod will bend mainly in the upper portion of the rod. It has a lot of strength (backbone) in the lower portion and is more flexible in the upper section of the rod blank.
  • Extra-Fast Taper This taper has the upper 12 to 18 inches of the rod bending with an extremely strong butt section. These rods are generally more expensive, and offer precise casting ability on light artificial lures. They have the flexible rod tip to work a small lure but still have the strength to horse a bigger fish if necessary.

Understanding the terminology and simple attributes of fishing rods can help you make a good choice when looking for a new rod.

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Lures by Type

Choose the right fishing lures to catch nearly every kind of freshwater and saltwater fish. Whether you're a skilled angler or a beginner, finding the best fishing lure to use depends on many different situations - the time of year, weather, water, and the type of fish you want to attract. No matter what your situation is, these topwater lures, crankbaits and saltwater lures help you explore every possible hiding place with productive results. Our fishing lures are made using the latest technology to give you the ultimate fishing experience and the best chance of reeling in a fish. From topwater lures and surface plugs to crankbaits and saltwater lures, get the right bait for the job from the most popular and historically recognized brands in the industry. Whatever your game, we'll hook you up with the right equipment to help you catch the big one!

 Jerkbait Fishing Lures
They’re long and slender and just don’t look like much when simply reeled through the water. But to anglers who know how to work them, jerkbaits evoke tremendous excitement and are one of the few lure types to create an entire niche within fishing lures. In early spring when the water’s still cold, anglers may throw a jerkbait all day long. But spring’s not the only time jerkbaits are your best choice. Anytime you’re fishing clear water or for bass (smallmouth and largemouth) or when they’re holding in water less than 10 or so feet deep, a jerkbait should be your weapon of choice. Bass aren’t the only species that readily eat a jerkbait. Walleyes and all species of trout also are suckers for the lure, as well as just about any other fish that eats other fish. Scientific research shows that gamefish prefer a lure that is long and slender, and the action of a jerkbait only adds to its effectiveness. And speaking of action! When retrieved correctly, the lure darts side-to-side, pauses, then takes off again to provoke reaction strikes. To achieve the correct retrieve, cast the lure, crank the reel handle a few times to get the lure down to its optimum depth, then pause. The action is imparted by jerking the rod tip -- jerk-jerk-jerk-pause, and repeat, varying the number of jerks or “twitches” and the duration of the pauses. Whether you’re using the classic Smithwick Rogue or new high-tech XCalibur Jerk Bait, the strike will make you a jerkbait believer.

 Soft Plastics

Soft plastic fishing lures is one of the largest segments of the lure industry, and for good reason. No other type of lure presents a more realistic looking – and feeling – than soft plastics. When a bass, panfish or walleye grabs a soft plastic worm or grub, it just feels right, and when imbedded with scent, tastes good, too. Early soft plastics resembled big earthworms, and the category has now expanded to all types of critters – worms, grubs, crawfish, lizards, frogs, minnows and a catch-all category of “creature baits,” those soft plastics featuring multiple wiggly appendages and don’t really look like anything a fish would eat in nature, but catch them anyway. Soft plastics are available in all of the colors of the rainbow and many are imbedded with glitter or “flake” that provide even more appeal. Equal to the number of colors are the ways to rig them. In addition, certain styles of soft plastics require different rigging to perform correctly, and there is any number of variations to the normal riggings. More than with any other lure category, soft plastics allows for more variation and angler alterations. Soft plastic lures may account for more bass, walleyes and panfish than any other lure type. Soft plastic lures can be used from the top to the bottom of the water column. Whether it’s a Texas rigged worm for largemouth bass or a small grub on a jighead for crappie or walleye, soft plastic lures are integral to angler success.

  

Jigs

The jig and trailer is a classic lure for big largemouth and smallmouth bass. From big Southern flippin’ jigs to finesse Northern heads, the jig is a mainstay in fishing. The jig’s head, skirt and hook is beautiful in its simplicity, and it’s up to the angler to impart the action through rod manipulation. Jigs can feature a rubberized/silicone-type material or hair skirt, often with a soft plastic craw or other type of trailer for added color, action and sink rate. Larger jigs are used for big largemouth flipped to shallow cover, punched through vegetation mats or dredged across a 15-foot ledge. Different situations may call for a super-slow motion retrieve or a frantic scramble that bulges the surface. A soft plastic craw or twin tail trailer creates more vibration and water displacement as well as size and color. One thing’s for sure, big jigs catch big bass. On the other end of the jig spectrum are small heads with a 4 or 6 inch worm rigged weedless. Cast and allowed to come to rest on the bottom, the angler quivers the rod to impart a shaking action to the worm, which rides upward in the water column. The head and other types of smaller jigheads are used for many types of curl tail, creature, worm and craw combinations – dragging, lift-and-drop, wacky and more. While the head often is associated with smallmouth bass, it’s also a fantastic largemouth bait .

 

Wirebaits

“Wirebait” is a relatively new term that refers to spinnerbaits and buzzbaits – lures consisting of a hook, weighted head of lead or similar material and a wire that extends into an R bend or circle bend back toward the hook with a spinning metal blade attached. The head is dressed in a skirt of multiple strands in various rubber or silicone type materials. Spinnerbaits are subsurface baits with twirling blades and buzzbaits ride on top with a burbling commotion, the head, hook and skirt riding just below the surface. Definitions aside, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits are a class of lures that are mostly reeled at a constant speed on top of (buzzbaits) or at any depth (spinnerbaits). Success with spinnerbaits depends on putting them in front of bass and allowing the spinning blades to produce the flash and water displacement of fleeing baitfish. The skirt provides a realistic undulating baitfish profile. Blades can be round (Colorado), which produce more vibration and water displacement along with flash, and Willow, which are more narrow and pointed on both ends, like the leaf of the willow tree. It’s accepted that it’s the flash more than vibration that attracts bass with Willow blades.

 

 Topwater Fishing Lures.

 Topwater lures should come with a warning: This product is known to cause increased heart rate, sweaty palms, trembling limbs and in some cases, heart attack. Thus is the excitement of topwater fishing. One minute your lure is plop-plopping back toward the boat and the next moment it explodes like a charge of dynamite. Then, the fight is on. Topwater lures – poppers, chuggers, buzzbaits, propbaits, cigar-shaped dog-walkers – are the most exciting lures for bass anglers because you see the strike. One moment you’re working your lure across the top and the next a bass violently smashes. Both largemouth and smallmouth bass often stun their prey before swallowing it, and one topwater strike will make you a believer in that. Poppers and chuggers – those with some type of concave face that catches water – are retrieved with quick twitches of the rod tip to make the lure “blurp!” Twitches can be rapid or painfully slow. Propbaits feature metal propellers at the front and often the back of the lure. These propellers spin on the retrieve and really spit water when twitched with some force. Retrieve can be a constant slow motion or twitches. Buzzbaits are wirebaits featuring a metal blade on a wire that bends and connects to a weighted head, hook and skirt. To properly work a buzzbait, cast and immediately begin your retrieve with constant cranking. Get the bait to the top as soon as possible and let it do the rest. A cigar-shaped, walk-the-dog topwater takes just a little practice to master. Cast, then begin a twitch-twitch-twitch retrieve while slowly taking in line. The bait will sashay side-to-side when correctly retrieved. For best results, leave just a little slack in the line while twitching the rod tip. And for your safety and for those in the boat with you, always wait until you feel the fish before setting the hook.

 

 Crankbaits.

 One feature almost all crankbaits share is a “lip” at the front of the bait that cause the bait to dive and wobble when retrieved. There are crankbaits that run from just under the surface (called “wakebaits”) down to almost 20 feet. They fish fast, meaning that an angler can cover vast areas quickly to locate hotspots and active fish. The crankbait is one of the most popular and effective lures in the world for largemouth and smallmouth bass, walleyes, panfish, pike and just about any other species of gamefish. The lip, or paddle, is a major determinant of diving depth. In general, the larger the lip, the deeper a crankbait will dive. A crankbait should track straight on the retrieve, not laying over on its side or trimming left or right. A crankbait that is “out of tune” normally can be corrected by using needle nose pliers to bend the line tie in the direction the bait is tracking. In the past crankbaits were termed “idiot baits” because the perception was that all an angler needed to do to catch fish was cast and reel, and they do catch fish with a steady retrieve, but retrieve variations (in speed, stops and starts, etc.) and location are important to maximizing your efforts. In general, crankbaits are at their best ricocheting off cover such as brushpiles or dock ladders or structure like rockpiles and humps rising out of deep water. Most anglers suggest pausing the retrieve when a crankbait connects with an obstruction, mimicking a stunned baitfish or crawfish. Baitfish and crawfish color patterns are the most popular, and darker colors product in low-light situations and at night

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BOAT
by Ron Ballanti

Are you in the market for a new boat? If so, there are many factors you should consider prior to making your purchase. Advanced planning and careful shopping can help ensure you get a boat you'll be happy with even after the initial euphoria wears off. Here are some helpful tips for finding a craft that ideally suits your needs.

First off, think about how your boat will be used and what type of craft will best fit your needs and budget. If you are in search of a recreational fishing boat, you will have different requirements than someone seeking a boat primarily for cruising. However, boaters may have secondary uses in mind for their vessels. Additionally, there are often important trade-offs when it comes to weighing the value of particular designs and features.

Before you think about anything else, consider the style of boat you want. For example, if you fish mainly within one-day range, and don't typically spend the night onboard, a center-console model may be the right boat for you. This design offers more fishing room than most other boat styles, and unobstructed, 360-degree fishability for casting and following hot fish. However, center console boats offer little protection from the sun or elements. They also don't offer the creature comforts afforded by other boat designs, such as berths or bathrooms. For this reason, center console models are usually not the best choice for someone looking for a family or multi-purpose boat.

Cuddy-cabin or walk-around boats compromise some fishing space and angler mobility, but they do offer a place to get out of the weather and amenities such as vee-berths, porta-potties, even small propane stoves. If you plan on fishing on multiple day trips, but also want a boat suitable for cruising with the wife and kids, you'll probably be happier in the long run with a cuddy-cabin.

If you are looking for a boat that is at home on the ocean, but can also be used as a family toy on freshwater lakes, there are many double-duty models available. These multi-purpose vessels often have dual consoles and a walk through to the bow. Bear in mind that this type of boat is usually only suitable for inshore and bay fishing, not for serious offshore trips.

Whatever style of boat you choose, whether you go with an aluminum or fiberglass hull, an outboard or I/O power, there are some very important features to look for if fishing is your main plan. One key onboard angling feature (and an area where may boats are lacking) is a good live-bait tank. Many factory-installed livewells are a joke when it comes to serious fishing. You need a tank of at least 25 gallons to carry one scoop of live bait. Generally speaking, the tank should be smooth and rounded inside, and taller than it is wide to minimize sloshing. It should also have an inlet system and pump that minimizes water turbulence and provides adequate water change-over every seven to 10 minutes. If a boat's factory bait tank is inadequate, examine your options for installing a custom tank. Sometimes you can plumb a transom fish box, cooler or storage area into a useful bait tank. If not, check to see if there is room for a free-standing tank on the deck or under a cockpit leaning post. On boats with limited deck space, it is often possible to mount a tank or diaper bag system on the transom or swimstep.

When looking over a prospective new boat, notice whether there is room to mount electronics - at least a sounder and GPS - where you'll be able to use these units easily. If you will be fishing, see if there is enough room between the console/cabin and the gunwales. If there's a step-up to the bow, is it easy enough to negotiate? Are the grabrails where you'll need them when the seas and the fishing get rowdy?

Another important consideration is storage. Make sure the boat has adequate dry storage for safety gear, clothes, paperwork and other important items. On fishing boats, take note of how many rod holders come standard. If there aren't enough or if the rod holders are not situated exactly where you want them, is there room to add some more? Remember, if you find a boat that suits most of your needs, you can usually customize it with extra rod holders, T-tops, downriggers and the like, if necessary.

A boat demo drive is also a must before purchasing any new craft. On the sea trial, you'll only have a short period of time to predict how a boat will perform during a lifetime's worth of conditions, so make it count. If you can, take her out on a breezy day and go out in the open ocean. This is the only real way to find out if she's a wet boat. Run into the seas, downswell and cross swell to see how the boat handles. See how she performs at trolling speeds, and what kind of wake she throws. Bring some gear and friend along for the boat test, and make sure the tank is at least half full. This will help you see how the vessel performs under real conditions.
We all get the urge every now and then, either to buy our first boat, or to trade the one we already have. That urge normally falls right in a time line with the local boat show going on over at the convention center, and it is a hard one to overcome. Seems that every year the boat builders add a little something extra, a lagniappe, that didn't come on the model we currently own.
Take heart if you are one of these poor souls. You have a lot of company out there. Lots of us get that urge every year.
There are a number of ways to overcome the urge, the most obvious of which is don’t go to the boat show! But if the urge really snags you, there is a method that you need to follow to overcome any emotional decision you may be trying to make.
If you are going to buy or trade boats, take a look at these issues before you go looking, and then apply the answers to any of the boats you find.

BUDGET

First and foremost, sit down and determine just how much you can afford or how much you plan to spend on a boat. People who go out blindly, particularly when financing agents are on the premise, often spend far more than they originally planned. It’s even a good idea to get pre-approved for a loan if you are borrowing, so you can deal from a position of strength and virtually pay cash for the boat. You also can make a rational decision about how much money you want to spend prior to being influenced by the boats themselves.

USE

Just how in the world are you going to use the boat? Are you a pure fisherman, or a family fisherman? Do you need a flats boat for shallow water only, a deep-V model for offshore angling, or a compromise boat – often called a bay boat? Does a bow rider or cuddy cabin better suit the needs of you family, or will they accept a pure fishing machine? You need to plan this out with your family in mind. Nothing is more miserable than a family of four trying to have an outing on a pure flats boat. It simply won’t work.

SIZE

Within your budget constraints, you need to determine just how big you boat will be. Do you plan to trailer it and keep it in your garage? If so, the whole rig can’t be longer than about twenty-two feet or it won’t fit in the garage. If you plan on a really big boat, can it be trailered? Boats over about twenty-five feet in length become very difficult to trailer without a large towing vehicle (at an additional expense!). Do you plan to store it or dock it? What kind of fishing do you plan to do? Offshore trips further than about twenty-five miles almost demand a boat capable of some very heavy seas – if only from a safety standpoint – and that means more size and more money.

POWER

Decide before you look, on the power for your boat. Inboard? Outboard? Outdrive? I have a preference for outboards, but your circumstance may allow you to choose something different. For sure you need to consider one of the new four cycle outboards. Pollution and emission reductions combine with super gas economy to make them the right thing to do. Go to an inboard only if you plan to be in deep water at all times. If you plan to fish inshore anywhere near shallow water, strike an inboard off your list.

MAKE

If you have made all the decisions to this point without seeing an actual boat, congratulations! You have more will power than I do! But if you have, you can pretty well describe the size and shape of the boat you want. Know that multiple manufacturers will probably make a boat that fits your needs exactly. The difference will be a choice you will have to make personally. I can’t recommend one brand over another here, but I can tell you that some boats are built better than others. Is the fiberglass hand laid fabric or chopped and blown? A hand laid hull is the superior product – and it will cost more. Is the boat built from a composite material such as Kevlar? Does it have a liner or is it a speckled, rolled-edge boat? Both of these features affect the price. The best policy is to get on the web and find some independent evaluations of various models. Several saltwater magazines offer reports in every issue of boats they have tested. They list the good and bad points.

FINALLY

This last piece of the exercise is where it gets really hard. Remember, sales people are involved in this, and the pressure will be on to sign on the dotted line. Take your time, evaluate, and compare. It’s the only way to make a good decision.
You may note that I have not mentioned haggling for a good price. Just like automobiles, boats have a sticker price and a price at which the dealer will sell. Your job, once you pinpoint the boat you want, will be to get the best price. On that issue, I can’t help! I can only ask you to leave emotions out of it! That particular boat isn’t the last model they will ever make. Your life will go on if you don’t buy it today! So, don’t let the salesman intimidate you into buying.
I hope this helps some wayward soul that has seen the boat of his dreams and can’t let that money burn holes in his pockets any longer! Two last pieces of advice I learned from my father:

1. In the long run, it always pays to go first class. Cheap prices usually mean cheap products. You get what you pay for.
2. Everything always costs more than you originally though it would! (from Murphy, I believe!)

Good Luck!

Types Of Boats

A number of factors come into play when choosing the right boat for you. One of the major classifications for recreational fishing boats is whether they are intended for inshore or offshore use.

Inshore Fishing Boat

These boats are used in shallow waters with land easily in sight. Inshore boats are normally smaller than offshore fishing boats and are a lot more affordable. They often have shallower hulls and lower gunnels, and are used on flats, lakes, ponds, and rivers.

An example of an inshore boat is the Pelican Predator fishing boat. This small lightweight fishing boat can be used to fish for a variety of inshore species. For example, it can be used as a bass, pike, or walleye fishing boat.

Offshore Fishing Boat

 

Offshore fishing is a lot more complex and dangerous than inshore fishing. An ocean fishing boat needs to be larger and sturdier to withstand the elements. Owning an offshore boat is an expensive luxury and is not affordable for the average recreational angler. For that reason, there are many saltwater fishing boat charters available to cater to the recreational anglers who do not own a boat that is fit for an offshore adventure.
Here is a video that demonstrates some of the excitement of offshore fishing.

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Pontoon Fishing Boat

A pontoon fishing boat will normally have a flat bottom with two long tubes (called pontoons) to support it. These are low cost boats and are normally cheaper to insure than other types of boats. Pontoons have a shallow draft, which helps them avoid damage from underwater objects. They are normally better suited for calm waters with very little waves.

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Drift Fishing Boat

 

Also known as the McKenzie dory or Rogue River dory, drift boats normally have a wide flat bottom and are known to be a lot more responsive than a rubber boat. These boats are often used by professional fishing guides and anglers for recreational fishing on faster flowing rivers.
Drift boats are normally constructed of three types of materials. These include wood, aluminum, and fiberglass. Each material is better suited for a different purpose. Aluminum can withstand punishment on quicker rapids, but makes a lot of noise. Wood makes for beautiful boats, but requires more upkeep. A fiberglass fishing boat is lighter than the other two and offers an improved rowing experience over the other two. You should consider these factors and your budget to maximize your drift boat fishing experience.

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Jon Fishing Boat

 

The Jon fishing boat is characterized by its flatness and stability. These boats can range in size from 8' to 20', the most popular ones being around 14' fishing boats that are constructed out of wood or aluminum. The boats are known for their simplicity and ease of maintenance.
Jon boat fishing is practiced mostly in lakes and calm waters because the boat's flat overall design is best suited for such conditions.

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Sport Fishing Boat

 

Sport fishing boats can offer some of the more exciting adventures an angler can have. These are fast and furious machines that take your whole fishing experience to the next level. Sport fishing boats take you far beyond what an inflatable or plastic fishing boat can ever offer. The offshore rigs allow the enthusiast to venture out on that exciting bay fishing boat trip for the giant fish that only the deep seas can offer.
Sport fishing boats can range widely in sizes and price. There is also a variety of designs for different purposes. Some are designed to go into the open ocean for the much larger fish. Other sport fishing boats are more modest in size and power and are meant for inshore lake fishing.
The boats need to be carefully matched to an appropriate fishing boat motor to extract the maximum utility from both. Fishing boat motors differ in size, power, fuel consumption, and intended use. When choosing a motor for your boat, it is highly advisable to consult a professional to match an appropriate motor to your boat.
Here is a video that discusses how important it is to match the boat to the engine.

Some of the top names in sport fishing boats include Skeeter, Ranger, Lund, Tracker, and Triton.

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Jet Fishing Boat

 

The jet fishing boat differs in its propulsion technology. They boat does not use a traditional propeller. Instead, the jet boat sucks in water and then expels that water through a smaller nozzle at the stern. This creates a jet-like propulsion. These boats can run in very shallow water and are highly maneuverable.

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Top 5 Things To Consider When Buying A Boat

The allure of owning a boat is very real. The quality and enjoyment of your recreational fishing experience will be greatly magnified. However, before you make any rash decisions at the local boat show, here are a couple of very important things to consider.

1. Your Budget Be rational about your purchase and your finances. A recreational boat is a luxury item, so don't buy unless you can afford one. It is a wise idea to decide on your maximum budget before going to look for the boat. Once you are at the dealer, your decision-making may be clouded by the different bells and whistles that expensive boats offer. Avoid that buyer's remorse by deciding from the very beginning what you can comfortably spend.
   
2. Decide What You Are Buying The Boat For Your fishing ambitions need to be balanced with the needs of those around you. A boat strictly for fishing is a lot different than one purchased for both fishing and family recreation. It is important to decide what kind of boat you want for the budget that you can afford. This will save a lot of bickering later on when you are accused of being selfish in purchasing a boat that only serves your own needs.
   
3. Boat Size Planning Do not get stuck with an elephant in the room. You must plan for storage and transportation of the boat prior to purchase. The boat will need to fit in the confines of the storage arrangements that you decide on. Therefore, if you plan to keep the boat in your garage, measure all the dimensions first, to ascertain that the boat you buy will not disrupt your space and lifestyle.
   It is also very important to try and imagine the perfect size of boat for you within your budget. A boat that is too small to serve your needs will not make you happy for too long. You will be wishing that you had purchased the bigger boat instead rather quickly. The same stands for a boat that is too large for your needs. Carefully deciding on the right size of boat for you is of great importance.
   
4. How Much Power Do You Need? When you are looking for a power boat, an important consideration is the motor. This decision often determines how fast you can go, fuel consumption, and the types of bodies of water it is best suited for. It is immensely important to match the motor to the boat. A mismatch will diminish your utility from both the boat and the motor.
   
5. Shop Around It is important to do your research first, before you venture out with the purchase in mind. The internet is a great resource that allows you to browse hundreds and thousands of boats. This will give you an idea of what you may be looking for and the kind of price ranges that you can expect.
   Never rush to make your purchasing decision. Some boats can have quite steep price tags, so you must make sure that you do your due diligence before making the purchase.
   

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Fishing techniques

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Fishing techniques are methods for catching fish. The term may also be applied to methods for catching other aquatic animals such as molluscs (shellfish, squid, octopus) and edible marine invertebrates.
Fishing techniques include hand gathering, spearfishing, netting, angling and trapping. Recreational, commercial and artisanal fishers use different techniques, and also, sometimes, the same techniques. Recreational fishers fish for pleasure or sport, while commercial fishers fish for profit. Artisanal fishers use traditional, low-tech methods, for survival in third-world countries, and as a cultural heritage in other countries. Mostly, recreational fishers use angling methods and commercial fishers use netting methods.
There is an intricate link between various fishing techniques and knowledge about the fish and their behaviour including migration, foraging and habitat. The effective use of fishing techniques often depends on this additional knowledge.^[1] Which techniques are appropriate is dictated mainly by the target species and by its habitat.
Fishing techniques can be contrasted with fishing tackle. Fishing tackle refers to the physical equipment that is used when fishing, whereas fishing techniques refers to the manner in which the tackle is used when fishing.

Contents 1 Hand fishing 2 Spearfishing 3 Netting 4 Angling 4.1 Line fishing 4.2 Angling with a rod 4.3 Other angling 5 Trapping 6 Animals 7 Other techniques 8 Destructive techniques 9 History 10 Notes 11 References 12 Further reading 13 External links

Hand fishing

See also: Gathering seafood by hand

It is possible to fish and gather many sea foods with minimal equipment by using the hands. Gathering seafood by hand can be as easy as picking shellfish or kelp up off the beach, or doing some digging for clams or crabs. The earliest evidence for shellfish gathering dates back to a 300,000 year old site in France called Terra Amata. This is a hominid site as modern Homo sapiens did not appear until around 50,000 years ago.^[2][3]

Ama diver in Japan

• Flounder tramping - Every August, the small Scottish village of Palnackie hosts the world flounder tramping championships where flounder are captured by stepping on them.

• Noodling: is practiced in the United States. The noodler places his hand inside a catfish hole. If all goes as planned, the catfish swims forward and latches onto the noodler's hand, and can then be dragged out of the hole, albeit with risk of injury to the noodler.^[4]

• Pearl divers - traditionally harvested oysters by free-diving to depths of thirty metres.^[5] Today, free-diving recreational fishers catch lobster and abalone by hand.

• Trout binning - is another method of taking trout. Rocks in a rocky stream are struck with a sledgehammer. The force of the blow stuns the fish.^[6]

• Trout tickling - In the British Isles, the practice of catching trout by hand is known as trout tickling; it is an art mentioned several times in the plays of Shakespeare.^[7]

Spearfishing

Main article: Spearfishing

Spearfishing is an ancient method of fishing conducted with an ordinary spear or a specialised variant such as a harpoon, trident, arrow or eel spear.^[8][9] Some fishing spears use slings (or rubber loops) to propel the spear.

A Hupa man with his spear

• Bowfishing - uses a bow and arrow to kill fish in shallow water from above.

• Gigging - uses small trident type spears with long handles for gigging bullfrogs with a bright light at night, or for gigging suckers and other rough fish in shallow water. Gigging is popular in the American South and Midwest.

• Hawaiian slings - have a sling separate from the spear, in the manner of an underwater bow and arrow.

• Harpoons - Spearfishing with barbed poles was widespread in palaeolithic times.^[10] Cosquer cave in Southern France contains cave art over 16,000 years old, including drawings of seals which appear to have been harpooned.

• Polespears - have a sling attached to the spear.

• Modern spearguns - traditional spearfishing is restricted to shallow waters, but the development of the speargun has made the method much more efficient. With practice, divers are able to hold their breath for up to four minutes and sometimes longer. Of course, a diver with underwater breathing equipment can dive for much longer periods.

• Tridents - are three-pronged spears. They are also called leisters or gigs. They are used for spear fishing and were formerly also a military weapon. They feature widely in early mythology and history.

Netting

Main article: Fishing net

Fishing nets are meshes usually formed by knotting a relatively thin thread. About 180 AD the Greek author Oppian wrote the Halieutica, a didactic poem about fishing. He described various means of fishing including the use of nets cast from boats, scoop nets held open by a hoop, and various traps "which work while their masters sleep".
Netting is the principal method of commercial fishing, though longlining, trolling, dredging and traps are also used.

A fisherman casting a net in Kerala, India

Oil painting of gillnetting, The salmon fisher by Eilif Peterssen.

Fishing with nets in Cà Mau, Vietnam.

• Artisanal techniques

• Chinese fishing nets - are shore operated lift nets.^[11] Huge mechanical contrivances hold out horizontal nets with diameters of twenty metres or more. The nets are dipped into the water and raised again, but otherwise cannot be moved.

• Lampuki nets - are an example of a traditional artisanal use of nets. Since Roman times, Maltese fishers have cut the larger, lower fronds from palm trees which they then weave into large flat rafts. The rafts are pulled out to sea by a luzzu, a small traditional fishing boat. In the middle of the day, lampuki fish (the Maltese name for mahi-mahi) school underneath the rafts, seeking the shade, and are caught by the fishers using large mesh nets.

• Cast nets - are round nets with small weights distributed around the edge. They are also called throw nets. The net is caste or thrown by hand in such a manner that it spreads out on the water and sinks. Fish are caught as the net is hauled back in.^[12] This simple device has been in use, with various modifications, for thousands of years.

• Drift nets - are nets which are not anchored. They are usually gillnets, and are commonly used in the coastal waters of many countries. Their use on the high seas is prohibited, but still occurs.

• Ghost nets - are nets that have been lost at sea. They can be a menace to marine life for many years.

• Gillnets - catch fish which try to pass through by snagging on the gill covers. Trapped, the fish can neither advance through the net nor retreat.

• Hand nets - are small nets held open by a hoop. They have been used since antiquity. They are also called scoop nets, and are used for scooping up fish near the surface of the water. They may or may not have a handle–if they have a long handle they are called dip nets. When used by anglers to help land fish they are called landing nets.^[13] Because hand netting is not destructive to fish, hand nets are used for tag and release, or capturing aquarium fish.

• Seine nets - are large fishing nets that can be arranged in different ways. In purse seining fishing the net hangs vertically in the water by attaching weights along the bottom edge and floats along the top. Danish seining is a method which has some similarities with trawling. A simple and commonly used fishing technique is beach seining, where the seine net is operated from the shore.

• Surrounding nets -

• Tangle nets - also known as tooth nets, are similar to gillnets except they have a smaller mesh size designed to catch fish by the teeth or upper jaw bone instead of by the gills.^[14]

• Trawl nets - are large nets, conical in shape, designed to be towed in the sea or along the sea bottom. The trawl is pulled through the water by one or more boats, called trawlers. The activity of pulling the trawl through the water is called trawling.

Angling

Main article: Angling

"Trolling for blue fish" lithograph by Currier & Ives, 1866

Fishermen using jiggerpoles for jigging from the Queenscliff pier

Angling is a method of fishing by means of an "angle" (hook). The hook is usually attached to a line, and is sometimes weighed down by a sinker so it sinks in the water. This is the classic "hook, line and sinker" arrangement, used in angling since prehistoric times. The hook is usually baited with lures or bait fish.
Additional arrangements include the use of a fishing rod, which can be fitted with a reel, and functions as a delivery mechanism for casting the line. Other delivery methods for projecting the line include fishing kites and cannons, kontiki rafts and remote controlled devices. Floats can can also be used to help set the line or function as bite indicators. The hook can be dressed with lures or bait. Angling is the principal method of sport fishing, but commercial fisheries also use angling methods involving multiple hooks, such as longlining or commercial trolling.

Line fishing

Line fishing is fishing with a fishing line. A fishing line is any cord made for fishing. Important parameters of a fishing line are its length, material, and weight (thicker, sturdier lines are more visible to fish). Factors that may determine what line an angler chooses for a given fishing environment include breaking strength, knot strength, UV resistance, castability, limpness, stretch, abrasion resistance, and visibility.
Modern fishing lines are usually made from artificial substances. The most common type is monofilament, made of a single strand. There are also braided fishing lines and thermally fused superlines.

• Droplining - a dropline consists of a long fishing line set vertically down into the water, with a series of baited hooks Droplines have a weight at the bottom and a float at the top. They are not usually as long as longlines and have fewer hooks.

• Handlining - is fishing with a single fishing line, baited with lures or bait fish, which is held in the hands. Handlining can be done from boats or from the shore. It is used mainly to catch groundfish and squid, but smaller pelagic fish can also be caught.

• Jiggerpole -

• Jigging -

• Longlining - is a commercial technique that uses a long heavy fishing line with a series of hundreds or even thousands of baited hooks hanging from the main line by means of branch lines called "snoods". Longlines are usually operated from specialised boats called longliners. They use a special winch to haul in the line, and can operate in deeper waters targeting pelagic species such as swordfish, tuna, halibut and sablefish.

Slab

• Slabbing - involves repetitively lifting and dropping a flat lure, usually made of 1 to 2.5 oz of lead painted to look like a baitfish, through a school of actively feeding fish that the angler has located on a fish finder. Used on white and striped bass in the reservoirs of the southern USA.

• Trolling - is fishing with one or more baited lines which are drawn through the water. This may be done by pulling the line behind a slow moving boat, or by slowly winding the line in when fishing from the land. Trolling is used to catch pelagic fish such as mackerel and kingfish.

External images
	Pelagic longline
	Dropline
	Trotline for catfish

• Trotlining - a trotline is like a dropline, except that a dropline has a series of hooks suspended vertically in the water, while a trotline has a series of hooks suspended horizontally in the water. Trotlines can be physically set in many ways, such as tying each end to something fixed, and adjusting the set of the rest of the line with weights and floats. They are used for catching crabs or fish, such as catfish, particularly across rivers.

Angling with a rod

Angling with a rod.

Extreme rock fishing off Muriwai Beach, New Zealand

An angler in his float tube plays a hooked pike.

Fishing rods give more control of the fishing line. The rod is usually fitted with a fishing reel which functions as a mechanism for storing, retrieving and paying out the line. Floats may also be used, and can function as bite indicators. The hook can be dressed with lures or bait.

• Bank fishing - fishing from river banks and similar shorelines. Bank fishing is usually performed with a rod and reel, although nets, traps, and spears can also be used. People who fish from a boat can sometimes access more areas in prime locations with greater ease than bank fishermen. However many people don’t own boats and find fishing from the bank has its own advantages. Bank fishing has its own requirements, and many things come into play for success, such as local knowledge, water depth, bank structure, location, time of day, and the type of bait and lures.

• Casting - the act of throwing the fishing line out over the water using a flexible fishing rod. The usual technique is for the angler to quickly flick the rod from behind toward the water.^[15] Casting is also a sport adjunct to fishing, much as shooting is to hunting. The sport is supervised by the International Casting Sport Federation, which sponsors tournaments and recognizes world records for accuracy and distance. Some variations of the technique exist, such as Surf fishing, the Reach cast, and Spey casting.

• Float tubes - small doughnut-shaped boats with an underwater seat in the "hole". Float tubes are used for fly fishing and enable the angler to reach deeper water without splashing and disturbing stillwater fish.

• Fly fishing - the use of artificial flies as lures. These are cast with specially constructed fly rods and fly lines. The fly line (today, almost always coated with plastic) is heavy enough cast in order to send the fly to the target. Artificial flies vary dramatically in size, weight and colour. Fly fishing is a distinct and ancient angling method, most renowned as a method for catching trout and salmon, but employed today for a wide variety of species including pike, bass, panfish, and carp, as well as marine species, such as redfish, snook, tarpon, bonefish and striped bass. There is a growing population of anglers whose aim is to catch as many different species as possible with the fly.

• Rock fishing - fishing from rocky outcrops into the sea. It is a popular pastime in Australia and New Zealand. It can be a dangerous pastime and claims many lives each year.

• Surfcasting - fishing from a shoreline using a rod to cast into the surf. With few exceptions, surf fishing is done in saltwater, often from a beach. The basic idea of most surfcasting is to cast a bait or lure as far out into the water as is necessary to reach the target fish from the shore. This may or may not require long casting distances and muscular techniques. Basic surf fishing can be done with a surfcasting rod between seven and twelve feet long, with an extended butt section, equipped with an appropriate spinning or conventional casting reel. Dedicated surfcasters usually possess an array of terminal and other tackle, with rods and reels of different lengths and actions, and lures and baits of different weights and capabilities. Depending on fishing conditions and the fish they are targeting, such surfcasters tailor bait and terminal tackle to rod and reel and the size and species of the fish. Reels and other equipment need to be constructed so they resist the corrosive and abrasive effects of salt and sand.

Other angling

• Bottom fishing - is fishing the bottom of a body of water. In the United Kingdom it is called "legering". A common rig for fishing on the bottom is a weight tied to the end of the line, with a hook about an inch up line from the weight. The method can be used both with hand lines and rods. There are fishing rods specialized for bottom fishing, called "donkas". The weight is used to cast or throw the line an appropriate distance. Bottom fishing can be done both from boats and from the land. It targets groundfish such as sucker fish, bream, catfish, and crappie.

• Ice fishing - is the practice of catching fish with lines and hooks through an opening in the ice on a frozen body of water. It is practised by hunter-gatherers such as the Inuit and by anglers in other cold or continental climates.

• Kayak fishing - has a long history, and has gained popularity in recent times. Many of the techniques used are the same as those used on other fishing boats, apart from difference is in the set-up, how each piece of equipment is fitted to the kayak, and how each activity is carried out on such a small craft.

• Kite fishing is said to have been invented in China. It was, and still is, used by the people of New Guinea and other Pacific Islands - either by cultural diffusion from China or independent invention. Kites can provide the boatless fishermen access to waters that would otherwise be available only to boats. Similarly, for boat owners, kites provide a way to fish in areas where it is not safe to navigate such as shallows or coral reefs where fish may be plentiful. Kites can also be used for trolling a lure through the water. Suitable kites may be of very simple construction. Those of Tobi Island are a large leaf stiffened by the ribs of the fronds of the coconut palm. The fishing line may be made from coconut fibre and the lure made from spiders webs.^[16] Modern kitefishing is popular in New Zealand, where large delta kites of synthetic materials are used to fish from beaches,^[17] taking a line and hooks far out past the breakers. Kite fishing is also emerging in Melbourne where sled kites are becoming popular, both off beaches and off boats and in freshwater areas. The disabled community are increasingly using the kites for fishing as they allow mobility impaired people to cast the bait further out than they would otherwise be able to.

• Boat anglers - Fishing is usually done either from a boat or from a shoreline or river bank. When fishing from a boat, pretty much any fishing technique can be used, from nets to fish traps, but some form of angling is by far the most common. Compared to fishing from the land, fishing from a boat allows more access to different fishing grounds and different species of fish. Some tackle is specialised for boat anglers, such as sea rods.

• Remote control fishing - Fishing can also be done using a remote controlled boat. This type of fishing is commonly referred to as RC fishing. The boat is usually one to three feet long and runs on a small DC battery. A radio transmitter controls the boat. The fisherman connects the fishing line/bait to the boat; drives it; navigating the water by manipulating the remote controller. The technique is growing in popularity. People have used home-made adaptations to remote control boats for this purpose, and recently commercial versions have appeared. There are also patented devices to adapt a regular RC boat into an RC fishing boat.^[18] There is debate about whether RC fishing should be legal. Most states will allow it if the line disconnects when a fish is hooked to the boat, and the fisherman reels in the fish with a fishing pole. When the RC boat is used to pull in the fish, it may be illegal unless on private property.^[19]

Trapping

Main article: Fish trap

Fishermen with traditional fish traps, Hà Tây, Vietnam

A typical wooden fish wheel

Lobster pots on the beach at Beer, Devon.

Traps are culturally almost universal and seem to have been independently invented many times. There are essentially two types of trap, a permanent or semi-permanent structure placed in a river or tidal area and pot-traps that are baited to attract prey and periodically lifted.

• Artisanal techniques

• Dam fishing - An artisanal technique called dam fishing is used by the Baka pygmies. This involves the construction of a temporary dam resulting in a drop in the water levels downstream -- allowing fish to be easily collected.^[20]

• Basket weir fish traps - were widely used in ancient times. They are shown in medieval illustrations and surviving examples have been found. Basket weirs are about 2 m long and comprise two wicker cones, one inside the other—easy to get into and hard to get out.^[21]

• Fishing weir - In medieval Europe, large fishing weir structures were constructed from wood posts and wattle fences. 'V' shaped structures in rivers could be as long as 60 metres and worked by directing fish towards fish traps or nets. Such fish traps were evidently controversial in medieval England. The Magna Carta includes a clause requiring that they be removed: "All fish-weirs shall be removed from the Thames, the Medway, and throughout the whole of England, except on the sea coast".^[22]

• Fish wheels - operate alongside streams, much as a water-powered mill wheel. A wheel complete with baskets and paddles is attached to a floating dock. The wheel rotates due to the current of the stream. The baskets on the wheel capture fish travelling upstream and transfer them into a holding tank. When the holding tank is full, the fish are removed.

• Lobster traps - also called lobster pots, are traps used to catch lobsters. They resemble fish traps, yet are usually smaller and consist of several sections. Lobster traps are also used to catch other crustaceans, such as crabs and crayfish. They can be constructed in various shapes, but the design strategy is to make the entry into the trap much easier than exit. The pots are baited and lowered into the water and checked frequently. Historically lobster pots were constructed with wood or metal. Today most traps are made from checkered wire and mesh. It is common for the trap to be weighted down with bricks. A bait bag is hung in the middle of the trap. In theory the lobster walks up the mesh and then falls into the wire trap. Bait varies from captain to captain but it is common to use herring. In commercial lobstering five to ten of these traps will be connected with line. A buoy marks each end of the string of pots. Two buoys are important to make retrieval easier and so captains don't set their traps over each other. Each buoy is painted differently so the various captains can identify their traps.

Animals

Chinese man with fishing cormorant.

• Cooperative human-dolphin fisheries date back to the ancient Roman author and natural philosopher Pliny the Elder.^[23] A modern human-dolphin fishery still takes place in Laguna, Santa Catarina, Brazil. Here, dolphins drive fish towards fishermen waiting along the shore and give them a signal when they can cast their nets. The dolphins then feed off the fish that manage to escape the nets.^[24][25]

• Cormorant fishing - In China and Japan, the practice of cormorant fishing is thought to date back some 1300 years. Fishermen use the natural fish-hunting instincts of the cormorants to catch fish, but a metal ring placed round the bird's neck prevents large, valuable fish from being swallowed. The fish are instead collected by the fisherman.^[26]

• Frigatebirds fishing - The people of Nauru used trained frigatebirds to fish on reefs.

• Portuguese Water Dogs - Dating from the 16th century in Portugal, Portuguese Water Dogs were used by fishermen to send messages between boats, to retrieve fish and articles from the water, and to guard the fishing boats. Labrador Retrievers have been used by fishermen to assist in bringing nets to shore; the dog would grab the floating corks on the ends of the nets and pull them to shore.

• Remora fishing - The practice of tethering a remora, a sucking fish, to a fishing line and using the remora to capture sea turtles probably originated in the Indian Ocean. The earliest surviving records of the practice are Peter Martyr d'Anghera's 1511 accounts of the second voyage of Columbus to the New World (1494).^[27] However, these accounts are probably apocryphal, and based on earlier, no longer extant accounts from the Indian Ocean region.

Other techniques

• Artisanal techniques

• Basnig -

Scientists carrying out a population and species survey using electrofishing equipment

• Electrofishing - is another recently developed technique, primarily used in freshwater by fisheries scientists. Electrofishing uses electricity to stun fish so they can be caught. It is commonly used in scientific surveys, sampling fish populations for abundance, density, and species composition. When performed correctly, electrofishing results in no permanent harm to fish, which return to their natural state a few minutes after being stunned.

• Fish aggregating devices - are man-made objects used to attract pelagic fish such as marlin, tuna and mahi-mahi (dolphin fish). They usually consist of buoys or floats tethered to the ocean floor with concrete blocks.

• Dredging - There are types of dredges used for collecting scallops, oysters or sea cucumbers from the seabed. They have the form of a scoop made of chain mesh and they are towed by a fishing boat. Dredging can be destructive to the seabed, because the marine life is unable to survive the weight of the dredge. It is extremely detrimental to coral beds since they take centuries to rebuild themselves. Unmonitored dredging can be compared to unmonitored forest clearing, where it can wipe out ecosystems. Nowadays, this method of fishing is often replaced by mariculture or by scuba diving.

• Fish finders - are electronic sonar devices which indicate the presence of fish and fish schools. They are widely used by recreational fishermen. Commercially, they are used with other electronic locating and positioning devices.

• Fishing light attractors - use lights attached (above or underwater) to some structure to attract fish and bait fish. Fishing light attractor are operated every night. After a while, fish discover the increased concentration of bait surrounding the light. Once located, the fish return regularly, and can be harvested.

• Flossing -

• Harvesting machines - have recently been developed for commercial fishing. Harvesting machines use pumps to pump fish out of the sea. Dredges have also been mechanized so that they directly transfer mollusks to the surface as are dredged.

• Payaos - a type of fish aggregating device used in Southeast Asia, particularly in the Philippines. Payaos were traditionally bamboo rafts for handline fishing before World War II, but modern steel payaos use fish lights and fish location sonar to increase yields. While payaos fishing is sustainable on a small scale, the large scale, modern applications have been linked to adverse impacts on fish stocks.

• Shrimp baiting - is a method used by recreational fisherman for of catching shrimp. It uses a cast net, bait and long poles. The poles are used to mark a specific location and then bait is thrown in the water near the pole. After several minutes the cast net is thrown as close to the bait as possible and shrimp are caught in the net. In the 1980s the sport became popular in the south eastern coastal states of the USA.

Destructive techniques

Destructive fishing practices are practices that easily result in irreversible damage to aquatic habitats and ecosystems. Many fishing techniques can be destructive if used inappropriately, but some practices are particularly likely to result in irreversible damage. These practices are mostly, though not always, illegal. Where they are illegal, they are often inadequately enforced. Some examples are:

• Explosives - Dynamite or blast fishing, is done easily and cheaply with dynamite or homemade bombs made from locally available materials. Fish are killed by the shock from the blast and are then skimmed from the surface or collected from the bottom. The explosions indiscriminately kill large numbers of fish and other marine organisms in the vicinity and can damage or destroy the physical environment. Explosions are particularly harmful to coral reefs.^[28] Blast fishing is also illegal in many waterways around the world.

• Bottom trawling -

• Cyanide fishing - Cyanides are used to capture live fish near coral reefs for the aquarium and seafood market. This illegal fishing occurs mainly in or near the Philippines, Indonesia, and the Caribbean to supply the 2 million marine aquarium owners in the world. Many fish caught in this fashion die either immediately or in shipping. Those that survive often die from shock or from massive digestive damage. The high concentrations of cyanide on reefs harvested in this fashion damages the coral polyps and has also resulted in cases of cyanide poisoning among local fishermen and their families.

• Fish toxins -

• Muroami - is a destructive artisan fishing method employed on coral reefs in Southeast Asia. An encircling net is used with pounding devices, such as large stones fitted on ropes that are pounded onto the coral reefs. They can also consist of large heavy blocks of cement suspended above the sea by a crane fitted to the vessel. The pounding devices are repeatedly lowered into the area encircled by the net, smashing the coral into small fragments in order to scare the fish out of their coral refuges. The "crushing" effect on the coral heads has been described as having longlasting and practically totally destructive effects.^[29]

History

Ancient remains of spears, hooks and fishnet have been found in ruins of the Stone Age. The people of the early civilization drew pictures of nets and fishing lines in their arts (Parker 2002). Early hooks were made from the upper bills of eagles and from bones, shells, horns and plant thorns. Spears were tipped with the same materials, or sometimes with flints. Lines and nets were made from leaves, plant stalk and cocoon silk. Ancient fishing nets were rough in design and material but they were amazingly, as if some now use (Parker 2002). Literature on the indigenous fishing practices is very scanty. Baines (1992) documented traditional fisheries in the Solomon Island. Use of the herbal fish poisons in catching fishes from fresh water and sea documented from New Caledonia (Dahl 1985). John (1998) documented fishing techniques and overall life style of the Mukkuvar fishing Community of Kanyakumari district of Tamilnadu, India. Tribal people using various plants for medicinal and various purposes (Rai et al. 2000; Singh et al. 1997; Lin 2005) extends the use notion for herbal fish stupefying plants. Use of the fish poisons is very old practice in the history of human kind. In 1212, King Frederick II prohibited the use of certain plant piscicides, and by the 15th century similar laws had been decreed in other European countries as well (Wilhelm 1974). All over the globe, indigenous people use various fish poisons to kill the fishes, documented in America (Jeremy 2002) and among Tarahumara Indian (Gajdusek 1954).