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Fishing Rod Power is the amount of energy it can accumulate and give back.

Power

Also known as "Power Value" or "Rod Weight" usually shows you what types of fishing, species of fish, or size of fish a particular fishing pole may be best used for. Power simply describes the overall stiffness of a blank, and the blanks ability to React. The reason for power rating is because there are big and small fishey's.

Ultra-light fishing rods are best for catching small bait fish like panfish. Extra-Heavy rods are used for heavy fish in surf fishing, deep sea fishing. Any fish can be caught with any rod, but catching panfish on a heavy rod offers no fun at all, and successfully landing a large fish on an ultra-light rod requires highest rod handling skills at best, and a fun you got is the best fun you can have but more frequently it ends in broken tackle and a lost fish. The best if rods are matched to the type of fishing they are intended for. The smaller the fish you target, the lighter the rod you will need. Panfish should be fished with either an Ultra Light or a Light rod, while you better use Heavy or Extra Heavy rod to cast large lures and fight some powerful and heavy fish like big musky.

The following list details the types of rod power, and the corresponding line and lure weight they would be best matched up with.

Power: Ultra Light Light Medium Medium Heavy Heavy Extra Heavy

Line Weight: 1 to 4lb Test 4 to 8lb Test 4 to 12lb Test 8 to 14lb Test 15 - 25lb Test 25lb Test and Above

Lure Weight: 1/64 - 1/16oz 1/32 - 1/8oz 1/8 - 3/8oz 3/16 - 1/2 oz up to 1 1/2 oz 1 1/2 oz and Above

The lure weights and line sizes that a rod can handle determine its power. Ultra-light rods are designed for 2-6 pound line and lures weighing from 1/32-ounce. Rod blank power is simply a rating. Based upon the design characteristics of a particular blank model.

Power catagories are as follows:

UL - Ultra-Light L - Light ML - Med/Light M - Medium MH - Medium Heavy H - Heavy XH - Extra Heavy UH - Ultra Heavy Rod power is the rod's strength or ability to lift weight from the tip; it is the amount of force needed to bend the rod. The thickness and type of rod material will determine this. Power ratings are mostly reflective of the rod's application, a heavy power rod would be suited for offshore trolling and a medium power rod might be designed for surf casting. Power describes the strength of the rod or its lifting power. Power is closely related to the line strength Power (to recommended line weight); heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines. It is fairly important to keep your line test within the limits printed on the rod since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy bass rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. One might be rated for 25lb line and the other for 80lb line. The type of water you're fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Thick, heavy cover will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can tie you up. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get bit, meaning you will need a lighter power rod. Power refers to the blank's resistance to flexing under load. The Newton's third law: For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Resistance to flexing is a natural design characteristic based upon the taper and wall thickness of the blank. The power for blanks may range from Ultra-Light to Heavy to even Extra Heavy. The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Action and Power are not the same and cannot be used interchangeably as some think. A lot of rod manufactures and anglers get this confused with action. Most rods when marked light-action is referring to power not action. The best way to tell the power of a rod is to check the line weight ratings. Action refers to rod flex and Power refers the rod's resistance to flexing. Using the design criteria and inherent characteristics of a blank will aid in specific techniques and presentations. Using blank characteristics to your advantage will provide you the benefit of making the most out of every opportunity to land fish. The discussion around technique application will center on Action as opposed to Power. Both traits are designed into the blank by the manufacturer, but action will be the most critical characteristic when discussing and evaluating techniques and presentations. For bluegill, crappie and small trout, a light power, fast action spinning rod is a good choice. A quality ultra-light rod also works for these fish, but many ultra-lights are too short and too wimpy. A 4½-foot ultra-light rod with the backbone of a boiled noodle isn't worth the packaging it came in for any species. For larger black bass, walleye and channel catfish, a medium power, moderate fast or fast action baitcasting rod works well. Baitcasting reels have an enclosed spool and mount on top of the rod. They are the best choice for lines of 10 pound test or higher. They require much greater practice than spinning gear to use effectively. Choose the moderate fast action if you plan to fish leeches or minnows for walleye, or chicken livers for channel cats. The slightly softer action usually helps prevent you from throwing off the bait while casting. If you plan to jig and worm fish for largemouth bass and occasionally fish for the other species, choose a fast action, medium power rod. Get a medium heavy or heavy power baitcasting rod with a fast action for striped bass, muskellunge, flathead catfish and blue catfish. This set-up is also good for flipping or pitching jigs for largemouth bass. Choose a moderate or slow action rod with a medium-heavy or heavy power rating if you plan to use live bait. Again, the softer action protects against throwing the bait off the hook on the cast. These rods possess enough strength to land these fish, but they can also handle the heavy lures and strong line needed.

  Many people looking to buy a fishing rod simply show up at the local big box store and pull the first rod that catches their eye off the rack. Others search the Internet for reviews on popular upscale brands. Still others ask a friend, or in my case, write to me asking which rod to buy. Here are some basic rod facts that you need to know before you head out or go online to purchase one.

What Kind of Fishing are you Planning?

• Inshore Fishing

  Inshore fishing means relatively shallow water and relatively small fish – under 20 pounds for the most part. So, you need a rod that can handle a good size fish, but not one that weighs so much you can’t even fish with it.
  • Casting – Casting rods are used with conventional reels and can be used with lures or bait for light bottom fishing. They also accommodate floats and are good for free-lining live bait.
  • Spinning – Spinning rods can usually do the same things that a casting rods does, they simply use a different reel – a spinning reel. Spinning equipment can cast a lighter lure and is not subject to the backlash problems that an inexperienced angler encounters with a casting reel. This is a good choice for a beginning angler.
  • Bottom Fishing – Either casting or spinning rods can be used for inshore bottom fishing. The water depth, current, and amount of weight required to get a bait to the bottom helps dictate which size rod to use.
  • Fly Fishing – If you are reading this and you are a beginning fisherman, fly fishing may be the last thing on your mind. But, inshore saltwater fly fishing is extremely popular. If you do plan a first time purchase of a saltwater fly outfit, go with a prepackaged complete outfit in a 6 to 8 weight range. This is a good midrange starting point – heavier weights are for larger fish (Tarpon, big stripers, etc.), lighter weights are usually found in freshwater applications.

• Offshore Fishing

  • Trolling – The majority of trolling rods are built for conventional reels. While heavy spinning gear is sometimes used trolling for dolphin and king mackerel, conventional tackle is by far the most popular. These rods are usually labeled by line class. The IGFA 30, 50, and 80 class reels match up with the appropriate rod. These rods are usually an investment – they can cost that much. It is not unusual to pay over $1000 for a complete outfit. However, there are some good rods that can be combined with good reels that can come in under $200 for the package.
  • Bottom Fishing – These are the “meat” rods that many anglers have used to catch loads of fish. They are heavier and stiffer than a trolling rod, generally longer than a trolling rod, and are able to stand up to the abuses that a big fish can give them.
  • Fly Fishing – Fly rods that are used offshore are built for punishment. These are the heavier outfits that have large arbor reels (reels that hold lots of line) and come in weights from 9 to 12. These are very specialized rods for a very specialized type of fishing.

• Surf Fishing

  Surf rods are another specialized category. They are made for both spinning and casting reels – the choice is more dependent on angler preference than anything else. These rods are from 9 to 12 or 14 feet in length. They are designed to allow for super long casts that can get a bait out beyond the breakers on the beach. The rod size is also determined by angler preference, and usually means longer, heavier rods when looking for bigger fish.

• Pier Fishing

  Almost any inshore rod, including surf rods, can be and are used from piers. Once again, angler preference, casting distance, and fish size will dictate the rod type and size.

Rod Attributes

All rods have a set of attributes that separate them from each other. They may not be limited to this list, but these are the most important ones you need when choosing a rod.

• Length
  • Longer rods usually – not always – mean longer casts.
  • Longer trolling rods will give to a fish when they strike, and are suited for lighter trolling line.
  • Shorter rods generally mean heavier line.
  • Long rods make lure casting easier.
  • Shorter rods are generally better for bottom fishing.
• Guides
  • Ceramic guides are more expensive but allow smoother operation, less line fray, and longer casts.
  • Roller guides are used on heavy trolling and bottom fishing rigs.
  • Case hardened stainless steel guides are used for wire line applications.
  • Standard metal guides are least expensive and are suited for most bottom fishing applications.
• Butt Length - The butt of the rod is the part between the reel and the back end of the rod. Casting rods will generally have shorter butts. Spinning rods will have slightly longer butts, and bottom fishing or trolling rods will have much longer butts. The length of the butt on a rod is dependent on how the anger plans to use the rod. Angler preference for comfort and ease of use is also in play here.
• Action (Taper) - Taper is an attribute that most beginning anglers and many experienced anglers overlook. Taper relates to the amount of bend the rod imparts from the tip to the butt. It is measured from slow to extra-fast. In general, the slower the taper, the cheaper the rod blank.
  • Slow - A slow taper means the whole rod, from butt to tip will bend in an arc under pressure – sort of like a big bow. This makes casting a heavy bait difficult and setting a hook even more difficult.
  • Medium - Moving up the scale, a medium taper tends to have the butt section not bend as easily as the top portion of the rod. Most “store bought” rods will be a medium taper. It fits the majority of fishing situations.
  • Fast – A fast taper rod will bend mainly in the upper portion of the rod. It has a lot of strength (backbone) in the lower portion and is more flexible in the upper section of the rod blank.
  • Extra-Fast Taper This taper has the upper 12 to 18 inches of the rod bending with an extremely strong butt section. These rods are generally more expensive, and offer precise casting ability on light artificial lures. They have the flexible rod tip to work a small lure but still have the strength to horse a bigger fish if necessary.

Understanding the terminology and simple attributes of fishing rods can help you make a good choice when looking for a new rod.

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Lures by Type

Choose the right fishing lures to catch nearly every kind of freshwater and saltwater fish. Whether you're a skilled angler or a beginner, finding the best fishing lure to use depends on many different situations - the time of year, weather, water, and the type of fish you want to attract. No matter what your situation is, these topwater lures, crankbaits and saltwater lures help you explore every possible hiding place with productive results. Our fishing lures are made using the latest technology to give you the ultimate fishing experience and the best chance of reeling in a fish. From topwater lures and surface plugs to crankbaits and saltwater lures, get the right bait for the job from the most popular and historically recognized brands in the industry. Whatever your game, we'll hook you up with the right equipment to help you catch the big one!

 Jerkbait Fishing Lures
They’re long and slender and just don’t look like much when simply reeled through the water. But to anglers who know how to work them, jerkbaits evoke tremendous excitement and are one of the few lure types to create an entire niche within fishing lures. In early spring when the water’s still cold, anglers may throw a jerkbait all day long. But spring’s not the only time jerkbaits are your best choice. Anytime you’re fishing clear water or for bass (smallmouth and largemouth) or when they’re holding in water less than 10 or so feet deep, a jerkbait should be your weapon of choice. Bass aren’t the only species that readily eat a jerkbait. Walleyes and all species of trout also are suckers for the lure, as well as just about any other fish that eats other fish. Scientific research shows that gamefish prefer a lure that is long and slender, and the action of a jerkbait only adds to its effectiveness. And speaking of action! When retrieved correctly, the lure darts side-to-side, pauses, then takes off again to provoke reaction strikes. To achieve the correct retrieve, cast the lure, crank the reel handle a few times to get the lure down to its optimum depth, then pause. The action is imparted by jerking the rod tip -- jerk-jerk-jerk-pause, and repeat, varying the number of jerks or “twitches” and the duration of the pauses. Whether you’re using the classic Smithwick Rogue or new high-tech XCalibur Jerk Bait, the strike will make you a jerkbait believer.

 Soft Plastics

Soft plastic fishing lures is one of the largest segments of the lure industry, and for good reason. No other type of lure presents a more realistic looking – and feeling – than soft plastics. When a bass, panfish or walleye grabs a soft plastic worm or grub, it just feels right, and when imbedded with scent, tastes good, too. Early soft plastics resembled big earthworms, and the category has now expanded to all types of critters – worms, grubs, crawfish, lizards, frogs, minnows and a catch-all category of “creature baits,” those soft plastics featuring multiple wiggly appendages and don’t really look like anything a fish would eat in nature, but catch them anyway. Soft plastics are available in all of the colors of the rainbow and many are imbedded with glitter or “flake” that provide even more appeal. Equal to the number of colors are the ways to rig them. In addition, certain styles of soft plastics require different rigging to perform correctly, and there is any number of variations to the normal riggings. More than with any other lure category, soft plastics allows for more variation and angler alterations. Soft plastic lures may account for more bass, walleyes and panfish than any other lure type. Soft plastic lures can be used from the top to the bottom of the water column. Whether it’s a Texas rigged worm for largemouth bass or a small grub on a jighead for crappie or walleye, soft plastic lures are integral to angler success.

  

Jigs

The jig and trailer is a classic lure for big largemouth and smallmouth bass. From big Southern flippin’ jigs to finesse Northern heads, the jig is a mainstay in fishing. The jig’s head, skirt and hook is beautiful in its simplicity, and it’s up to the angler to impart the action through rod manipulation. Jigs can feature a rubberized/silicone-type material or hair skirt, often with a soft plastic craw or other type of trailer for added color, action and sink rate. Larger jigs are used for big largemouth flipped to shallow cover, punched through vegetation mats or dredged across a 15-foot ledge. Different situations may call for a super-slow motion retrieve or a frantic scramble that bulges the surface. A soft plastic craw or twin tail trailer creates more vibration and water displacement as well as size and color. One thing’s for sure, big jigs catch big bass. On the other end of the jig spectrum are small heads with a 4 or 6 inch worm rigged weedless. Cast and allowed to come to rest on the bottom, the angler quivers the rod to impart a shaking action to the worm, which rides upward in the water column. The head and other types of smaller jigheads are used for many types of curl tail, creature, worm and craw combinations – dragging, lift-and-drop, wacky and more. While the head often is associated with smallmouth bass, it’s also a fantastic largemouth bait .

 

Wirebaits

“Wirebait” is a relatively new term that refers to spinnerbaits and buzzbaits – lures consisting of a hook, weighted head of lead or similar material and a wire that extends into an R bend or circle bend back toward the hook with a spinning metal blade attached. The head is dressed in a skirt of multiple strands in various rubber or silicone type materials. Spinnerbaits are subsurface baits with twirling blades and buzzbaits ride on top with a burbling commotion, the head, hook and skirt riding just below the surface. Definitions aside, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits are a class of lures that are mostly reeled at a constant speed on top of (buzzbaits) or at any depth (spinnerbaits). Success with spinnerbaits depends on putting them in front of bass and allowing the spinning blades to produce the flash and water displacement of fleeing baitfish. The skirt provides a realistic undulating baitfish profile. Blades can be round (Colorado), which produce more vibration and water displacement along with flash, and Willow, which are more narrow and pointed on both ends, like the leaf of the willow tree. It’s accepted that it’s the flash more than vibration that attracts bass with Willow blades.

 

 Topwater Fishing Lures.

 Topwater lures should come with a warning: This product is known to cause increased heart rate, sweaty palms, trembling limbs and in some cases, heart attack. Thus is the excitement of topwater fishing. One minute your lure is plop-plopping back toward the boat and the next moment it explodes like a charge of dynamite. Then, the fight is on. Topwater lures – poppers, chuggers, buzzbaits, propbaits, cigar-shaped dog-walkers – are the most exciting lures for bass anglers because you see the strike. One moment you’re working your lure across the top and the next a bass violently smashes. Both largemouth and smallmouth bass often stun their prey before swallowing it, and one topwater strike will make you a believer in that. Poppers and chuggers – those with some type of concave face that catches water – are retrieved with quick twitches of the rod tip to make the lure “blurp!” Twitches can be rapid or painfully slow. Propbaits feature metal propellers at the front and often the back of the lure. These propellers spin on the retrieve and really spit water when twitched with some force. Retrieve can be a constant slow motion or twitches. Buzzbaits are wirebaits featuring a metal blade on a wire that bends and connects to a weighted head, hook and skirt. To properly work a buzzbait, cast and immediately begin your retrieve with constant cranking. Get the bait to the top as soon as possible and let it do the rest. A cigar-shaped, walk-the-dog topwater takes just a little practice to master. Cast, then begin a twitch-twitch-twitch retrieve while slowly taking in line. The bait will sashay side-to-side when correctly retrieved. For best results, leave just a little slack in the line while twitching the rod tip. And for your safety and for those in the boat with you, always wait until you feel the fish before setting the hook.

 

 Crankbaits.

 One feature almost all crankbaits share is a “lip” at the front of the bait that cause the bait to dive and wobble when retrieved. There are crankbaits that run from just under the surface (called “wakebaits”) down to almost 20 feet. They fish fast, meaning that an angler can cover vast areas quickly to locate hotspots and active fish. The crankbait is one of the most popular and effective lures in the world for largemouth and smallmouth bass, walleyes, panfish, pike and just about any other species of gamefish. The lip, or paddle, is a major determinant of diving depth. In general, the larger the lip, the deeper a crankbait will dive. A crankbait should track straight on the retrieve, not laying over on its side or trimming left or right. A crankbait that is “out of tune” normally can be corrected by using needle nose pliers to bend the line tie in the direction the bait is tracking. In the past crankbaits were termed “idiot baits” because the perception was that all an angler needed to do to catch fish was cast and reel, and they do catch fish with a steady retrieve, but retrieve variations (in speed, stops and starts, etc.) and location are important to maximizing your efforts. In general, crankbaits are at their best ricocheting off cover such as brushpiles or dock ladders or structure like rockpiles and humps rising out of deep water. Most anglers suggest pausing the retrieve when a crankbait connects with an obstruction, mimicking a stunned baitfish or crawfish. Baitfish and crawfish color patterns are the most popular, and darker colors product in low-light situations and at night

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